Understanding what is required yearly to maintain your lawn will help you get that beautiful look that you've always wanted. These are some steps to follow:
WHEN AND HOW MANY TIMES A YEAR SHOULD I AERATE MY LAWN AND WHY?
Most lawns only need aeration when compacted soil becomes a problem. They don't need to be aerated twice a year. Soil compaction can become a problem if your lawn receives a lot of foot or vehicle traffic. The problem is likely to arise sooner if you have a soil with lots of clay. Soils that are sandy and richer in organic content do not compact as easily, but they too can become compacted if the traffic is heavy enough. If you cannot shove a large screwdriver into the soil on a relatively dry day, aeration is probably warranted. Have your lawn aerated only in the fall. Spring aeration exposes a lot of bare soil to warm season weed seeds like crabgrass. For best results, follow the aeration with light topdressing of compost, spread no thicker than 3/8" thick (1/4" or less on hybrid bermuda lawns).
WHAT DOES AERATING MY LAWN DO?
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Promotes air exchange between the soil and atmosphere
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Reduces soil compaction
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Deeper, healthier root growth
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Improves nutrient uptake and use
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Decreases water run off and puddling
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Conserves water by improving soil water uptake
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Penetrates heavy thatch, enhancing thatch break down
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Makes the turf more heat and drought tolerant
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Enriches surface soil improving resiliency and cushioning
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You get a greener, healthier lawn
WHEN SHOULD I FERTILIZE MY LAWN AND HOW OFTEN?
You should consider these four factors: climate, grass type, the fertilizer being used, and how you want your lawn to look. For those of us who want our lawn looking its best, then it's a good idea to fertilize your lawn 4 - 5 times a year. Conversely, even if you don't want a good-looking lawn, you should at least fertilize twice a year for your grass's sake. As a rule of thumb, it is best to apply fertilizers when your lawn is actively growing. If you fertilize with nitrogen while your lawn is dormant, you can encourage weed growth, and ultimately waste fertilizer. Cool-Season Grasses tend to have two flourishing (or growing) periods. The first is after the lawn's return from winter dormancy. The second is during the early fall, when temperatures moderate and droughts and heat waves typically are gone (after August). For Cool-Season lawns in the north, it is usually best to concentrate a larger amount of nitrogen to be applied during the early fall growing period and a lesser amount in the spring.
WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF FERTILIZER?
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Complete Inorganic Fertilizers - these types of inorganic fertilizers contain all three major macronutrients, Nitrogen, Phospherus, and Potassium.
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Special Purpose Fertilizers - these types of fertilizers are formulated especially to target certain plants' requirements or certain soil deficiencies.
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Liquid Fertilizers - these types of fertilizers come in a variety of formulations and even include orgainc fertilizer, complete fertilizer as well as special purpose fertilizer.
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Slow-release Fertilizer - these types of fertilizers are formulated to release their nitrogen at a steady pace.
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Fertilizer with Insecticide - these types of fertilizers are prepared and combined with an insecticide.
WHAT IS WEED & FEED?
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Weed and feed is a product that contains both a fertilizer and a herbicide.
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Weed and feed product labels often indicate it contains a "broadleaf control" (a pesticide).
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It may be granular (applied by a spreader) or a liquid (applied with a hose).
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Is often mistakenly used to prevent weeds.
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Weed and feed contains pesticides. It contains some of the same pesticides that are found in the sprays used by some lawn care companies.
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Is not effective at preventing weeds. A better preventative method is to add fertilizer and grass seed in the spring and fall.
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Weed and feed applications spread chemicals unnecessarily on your entire lawn, whether needed or not.
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The best way to prevent insect and weed problems is to follow a few simple steps like fertilizing and mowing and watering properly. This can go a long way to preventing problems.
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Instead or using weed and feed, use "seed and feed" - just add good quality grass seed and slow release fertilizer in the spring and fall.
WHAT DOES DETHATCHING MY LAWN DO AND WHEN SHOULD IT BE DONE?
We only recommend dethatching lawns that suffer from an extremely thick thatch layer that is greater than three inches thick. The reason is because dethatching causes extensive damage to a lawn and is extremely labour intensive. If your thatch layer is less than three inches, then we recommend aeration in the spring and fall as the best method to reduce your thatch. Aeration pulls plugs of soil and thatch out of the lawn and the cores of soil breakdown and populate the thatch with millions of soil microbes that help biodegrade that thatch naturally.
Dethatching is best done in late summer/early fall. This allows the lawn plenty of time to recover before winter, but also avoids the rigours of summer drought and heat. By waiting until late summer there will also be less competition with a variety of weeds that germinate in the spring. Dethatching can also be done in early spring, but avoid late spring because the lawn needs time to recover in order to survive the summer heat and drought.
WHAT IS POWER RAKING AND WHY IS IT BETTER THAN DETHATCHING?
Power Raking is a great way to remove the dead debris and crust that builds up on a lawn over winter. It is also a gentle way to remove a small amount of thatch from the lawn without causing the significant damage that dethatching can cause. We recommend power raking in the early spring before new growth has begun. Power raking is also a great service to combine with over seeding, as it opens the lawn surface so that new seed can get better established. Power raking is a great way to thicken up bent grass lawns. Power raking slices the surface stolons and stimulates new growth, thickening the lawn.
HOW DO I GET RID OF CRABGRASS?
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Set your lawn mower to cut as high as possible, taking into consideration healthy heights for your variety of turf grass. 2 - 3 inches is ideal for eliminating crabgrass, and most common species of turf grass will tolerate being kept at that height. Crabgrass can't germinate in the shade, so keeping your lawn a little longer will ensure that the turf grass hoards the sunlight and stays healthy, while crabgrass languishes beneath it.
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Limit your lawn to infrequent watering that goes 4 - 6 inches deep. If the ground is allowed to dry between watering, shallow-rooted crabgrass will have trouble germinating. Deep watering also improves the health of turf grass by encouraging it to grow deeper root systems, which make it more resilient in less-than-perfect environmental conditions. And that, in turn, makes it better equipped to hold its own in a crabgrass invasion.
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Over seed your lawn to thicken the turf grass and fill in any bare areas that could be taken over by opportunistic crabgrass. The best time to do this is early fall, because grass germinates more easily in warmish soil and, after the first frost, it won't have to compete with crabgrass or a pre-emergent herbicide like it would in spring. Over seeding is a big job, involving a lot of mowing, raking, and watering, but it should be done every five years or so even if you don't have a problem with crabgrass. And if you do, over seeding is crucial to crabgrass prevention.
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Fertilize your lawn in the fall rather than in spring. Crabgrass, an annual plant, is killed off every year by the first hard frost. If you fertilize after this happens, only the desirable turf grass will reap the benefits of the fertilizer. On the other hand, if you apply fertilizer in the spring, when crabgrass is germinating, you'll be practically giving it permission to take over your lawn.
HOW DO I RESEEND A LAWN?
If your lawn has brown spots, bare spots, or is thinning, it may be time to reseed it to achieve a lusher, healthier lawn. Reseeding, or over seeding does take some preparation and planning, but can improve your curb appeal, your home's value, and even your relationship with your neighbours.
Timing: Although you can reseed at almost any time of the year, the grass needs adequate time to get established before winter. It should be done several weeks before the first frost, but after the scorching heat of summer, which can be tough on lawns.
Preparation: Before you reseed the lawn, you must first remove all the weeds, debris, and dead grass from the area by manually pulling weeds or using weed killer. If you use weed killer, be sure to follow the directions, which should specify how long it would take to be effective, before you reseed. Next, loosen the soil with a hard rake. For extremely compacted soil, you may need to rent a machine to aerate the soil, which removes small plugs of dirt and turf. This allows water and nutrients to better penetrate the soil and nourish the roots of your lawn.
Reseeding: Once the soil has been prepared, you must choose your grass seed. You should use a seed that is similar to the grass that is already in your lawn, and is appropriate for your zone. This will prevent unsightly spots where one area may be greener or have smaller blades than another. Scattering the seed by hand is sufficient, but if you are reseeding an entire lawn, it is better to use a mechanical spreader to ensure even coverage. Set it for three to four ponds per 1,000 square feet.
Rake the seed into the soil so it makes good contact with the soil. If it is lying on top of existing grass, it may not sprout, and may become the neighborhood birds' next meal. If birds are likely to be a major problem, you can cover the seeded area with weed-free straw or hay, or about a quarter inch of mulch. Some garden care centres recommend applying a starter fertilizer to the lawn after reseeding.
After you reseed, it is important that you keep the soil moist by watering it twice a day. The grass will germinate in about two weeks. Once the grass starts to grow, mow it. The ideal length for grass is two to two and a half inches, as opposed to closely cropped grass. This encourages deeper rooting, which is especially important with new lawns.
While your new lawn is getting established, avoid heavy traffic -- try to keep pets and kids off it until it is strong and healthy. Be sure to maintain your newly refurbished lawn by mowing regularly, applying weed and feed, and keeping it watered during droughts or hot weather.
Spring Maintenance Schedule
![""]("http://76.163.3.10/images/dotclear.gif") |
FEB
|
MAR
|
APR
|
| Lawn |
Fertilize:
Nitra-King 22-3-9 |
Aerate |
Fertilize:
Turf Supreme 16-6-8 |
| Ground Cover |
Fertilize:
Pro Balance, 15-15-15
Soil Buster 2/5/0 |
|
Fertilize:
Pro Balance, 15-15-15
Soil Buster 2/5/0 |
| Shrubs & Trees |
Fertilize:
Pro Balance, 15-15-15 |
|
Fertilize:
Pro Balance, 15-15-15 |
| Irrigation |
Usually not necessary |
Irrigation start up & system check |
| Special Notes |
Spring Cleanup
Plant spring flowers & bulbs
Prune roses & fruit trees
Mulch planters & gardens |
Summer Maintenance Schedule
|
MAY
|
JUN
|
JUL
|
| Lawn |
Aerate |
Fertilize:
Turf Supreme 16-6-8 |
|
| Ground Cover |
|
Fertilize:
Pro Balance, 15-15-15
Soil Buster 2/5/0 |
|
| Shrubs & Trees |
|
Fertilize:
Pro Balance, 15-15-15 |
|
| Irrigation |
Largest water usage months
Lawns: 3-4 times weekly
Gardens: 1-2 times weekly |
| Special Notes |
Summer Maintenance
Full maintenance schedule
Continue applying mulch |
